Hiking in Dalmatia - at one with nature

As we see Autumn coming to a close in Sibenik, we can reflect on the gorgeous colour palettes of oranges, reds, yellows and browns, signalling that winter is approaching. The nights are now quite cool, but the fresh and often clear days lend themselves to the ideal time for exploring the natural and archeological wonders that our region is blessed with.

One of our favourite things to do is hiking. The landscape is like a wilderness untouched and uspoilt in its natural wonder. There is an ever-changing and breathtaking beauty to be discovered, as if for the first time.

Expect to see spectacular waterfalls, rivers, flora, fauna and a uniquely magnificent landscape that can only occur in this uniquely karstic natural wonder, meaning that the area is characterised by limestone and also includes the formation of the most incredible natural sights such as canyons, sinkholes, underground streams and caverns. Such is the beauty of the whole of Dalmatia from the hinterland all the way to the coast.

We are extremely fortunate to personally know one the best and most experienced hiking guides in Croatia, our good friend Jozo. He has over 20 years experience trekking the Dalmatian hinterland, some areas little explored and some sights unheard of even by locals.

The following will give you an idea of the kind of guided tours we can arrange for you:


Mt Dinara climb, this is Croatia's highest mountain at 1831 metres.

Zrmanja and Krupa Rivers hike, incuding canyons, caves, waterfall, underground spring, ancient monastery and stone bridge.

Cikola River canyoning, including caves, waterfalls, meeting the Krka River and the medieval Kljucica fortress

Mamet Cave, hiking via Mt Velebit range.

Surdup climb, via Knin in the Mt Dinara region, near the Bosnian border. Knin - important to Croatia's history and known as the 'home of Croatian kings' as it was the capital of the Kingdom of Croatia a thousand years ago - is host to historical and medieval fortifications, it is the site of prehistoric remains as well as the point where the Krcic and Krka rivers join.

NP Krka hike, to the best vantage points for picturesque scenery of rivers, fortresses and waterfalls.

Aside from exploring by foot the various fortresses in the Sibenik region, and trekking through natural terrain filled with spectacular scenery, or visiting prehistoric and archeological sites, why not consider jeep safari tours? These are available to Vranjsko Lake, Krka, Primosten and Mt Dinara. 


There are many options for active, adventure style experiences that allow you to enjoy the natural beauty of Croatia; diving, caving, canoeing, kayaking, rafting, sailing, mountaineering and rock climbing, recreational and game fishing, para-gliding, cycling and mountain biking and horse riding. 


Other outdoor ventures include golf, and in our very own Sibenik there's paint ball, bungee jumping, and a falconry centre.


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Medieval fortifications in Sibenik

The town of Sibenik, also the capital of the Sibenik-Knin region in northern-central Dalmatia, is the oldest town on the Adriatic coast that was established by the Croats - without any influence from the Romans, Venetians or others. The first written mention of Sibenik is from 1066 in a document written by the Croatian king Petar Krešimir IV. 

Sibenik-Knin county is home to at least 15 fortifications, 11 of them from the medieval period and still in good condition to this day. Four of these are located within the town of Sibenik, their duty as the town's defense system was to protect the town from invasions throughout the centuries, least of not the Ottomans.

These are:

• The original fortress of St Michael (Sv Mihovil) - patron saint of Sibenik - located in the historic town centre commencing at the coastline and rising 70m steep. Building commenced in the 15th Century lasting until the 17th Century. St Michael fortress was damaged twice, in the mid 1600s and the mid 1700s, due to storage of gunpowders and explosives, but rebuilt. 
• St John (Sv Ivan), positioned on the highest point (115m) above the town, was built in a star pattern in the year 1646 and completed in only six weeks. 
• Subicevac, located on several hundred metres below St John. The two were built at the same time. 
• The the truly unique fortress and the strongest naval fortification on the coast of Croatia, St Nicholas (Sv Nikola) located on the island of Ljuljevac, at the canal entrance into Sibenik. Built in the mid 16th Century to protect Sibenik from attack by sea. 

There are numerous others around the county, mostly located in the hinterland in the vicinity of Krka National Park, but most notably is the impressive fortress of Knin which dominates the highest point above this town.

One of the most important factors of Sibenik's heritage is the medieval town core. It consists of a labyrinth of typically narrow Dalmatian streets, known as 'kala'. Of unique cultural significance within the historical town centre is the number of churches. Sibenik had the greatest number amongst all the historic Dalmatian town centres, at one point numbering 28. To this day, 13 remain preserved.

The most famous of these churches situated in the historical town core, is the iconic Cathedral of St Jacob (Sv Jakov) which symbolically represents the town of Sibenik. The construction of the cathedral lasted in total for 105 years; from 1431 until 1536.

Protected by UNESCO since 2000 (one of seven UNESCO sites in the Republic of Croatia), St Jacob is renowned for its construction methods and is a structure not only recognised for its significance in Croatian art history but also on a European level.

The frieze of 74 human heads is of particular interest, made by the peer of the cathedral's head architect Juraj Dalmatinac, positioned on the apse exteriors. It is believed that the actual heads were based on real people living in Sibenik during the time of construction. 

Just of a bit of fun, the Dalmatian newspapers run stories from time to time comparing the faces' similarities to modern day Croatian celebrities and sports people!

The good news is that the best time to see these cultural and historic architectural gems in our beloved Sibenik is during autumn and winter, if you happen to have a spare week. We recommend that you also try and fit in a visit to Knin, at the very least. 

Although the mornings and after dark the air is crisp we are often party to some lovely sunny days of 12 or 13 degrees Celsius, good enough to wear a T shirt. But be warned to bring layers of clothing including thermals, as you must be prepared in case of the famous Bura winds phenomena that blows very strong and icy cold - capable of dropping temperatures by 15 degrees Celsius in its presence. 

This is actually an occurrence peculiar to Dalmatia and is a unique experience in itself. The day after a Bura will often be a lovely, still and sunny day and the locals are torn between cursing the chill and wind factor, and appreciating the cleansing effect it has on the towns and the sea. The sea temperature in winter averages at 12 degrees Celsius.

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Fortress of Sv Mihovil (St Michael), as viewed from Sv Ivan

The historic town centre of Sibenik, Sv Mihovil is visible as the highest point

View to Sv Mihovil from Subicevac

fortress of Subicevac

View from Subicevac, Sv Mihovil visible in the distance (top left)

View of the fortress Sv Ivan as seen from Sv Mihovil

One aspect of Sv Ivan (St John), more as follows

View of Sibenik from Sv Ivan

View of Sv Mihovil from Sv Ivan - Sv Nikola can be seen in the distance, at the canal entrance

Canal entrance, the only way to reach Sibenik by sea

Boat heading for the canal

This and following images are close-ups of Sv Nikola (St Nicholas), the sea-based fortification at Sibenik's  entrance

Another aspect of Sv Nikola, more following

Cathedral of Sv Jakov

Detail of the human heads, exterior of Sv Jakov

Close-up detail of St Michael (Sv Mihovil) - the patron saint of Sibenik - as represented in stone on St Jacob (Sv Jakov) Cathedral. Always portrayed slaying the devil, St Michael symbolises victory and fearlessness and was selected by the early residents of Sibenik as their heavenly guardian for strength and protection. Nowadays, he is also the patron saint of the Croatian police force and army. The feast of St Michael is celebrated on September 29, and is an important day in Sibenik's calendar of festivals.

 A view of just one of many sections of the spectacular Knin fortress